Dijon

One of the most enjoyable aspects of visiting the Champagne and Sancerre regions this summer was getting the opportunity to explore the places that produce some of our favorite wines and foods. We were inspired to visit Dijon by my love of mustard, and further research revealed that it is also home to one of our favorite drinks, the kir.  While we did manage to fit in both a kir aperitif and a trip to the Maille store, it was the city of Dijon and the Côte d’Or wine region that were the highlights of the trip. We spent lots of time walking around Dijon even though it was a rainy weekend.  The city is a gorgeous mix of architectural styles, with half-timbered buildings from the 12th - 14th centuries, dramatic gothic buildings, and even an Art Deco indoor market.

The Côte d’Or wine region is a part of Burgundy that runs south from Dijon.  We initially considered renting a car in Dijon and exploring the area ourselves.  When I read more about the area, though, I realized that it is the home to some of the most expensive wines in France (and the world) and was a little intimidated by the prospects of figuring out where we might set up tastings.  We decided that a guided tour might give us a chance to learn a little more about the different appellations.

Our tour was extremely informative.  We drove around the Côte d’Or, stopping to try Époisse (a local cheese), all sorts of wines, a variety of truffle products, and to see the town of Beaune.

We were joined on the tour by a woman from Hong Kong who was doing research for a book on wine tourism in France for the Chinese market.  The discussions between our guide and the writer proved entertaining, such as when the writer informed the guide that people from China would be willing to pay him a lot of money for visits to one of the most famous winemakers in the region.  Our guide explained that the winery only opened their doors to the most knowledgeable and discerning aficionados.  He said he always carefully screened and hand-picked the guests and that no amount of money would allow you to buy your way in.  She seemed confused and repeatedly emphasized how much money people would pay him, as if perhaps he didn’t understand the amounts involved.  He kept responding that this sort of experience needed to be earned, not bought. We just sat in the back seat of the car, amused by the clash of cultures.